Savagnin blanc has been gaining popularity with the lovers of the wine world’s unique offerings. However, the grape itself is not likely to be in the spotlight. Instead, winelovers will know it better though its expression as Vin Jaune. Vin Jaune, or ‘yellow’ wine is a treasure in a bottle from the eastern French region of Jura.
No other region of the world focuses on Savagnin blanc the way the Jura region does. So really, it is no surprise that Jura has the highest density of Savagnin blanc in its vineyards in the wine world. It is not just used there for vin jaune, of course. Those who appreciate Jura wine will know that Savagnin blanc makes excellent still wines as well. The wine is also sometimes called ‘Traminer’. There are some very interesting versions of this grape on wine shelves and cellars in Australia.
Vin Jaune is a specialty wine that is made using the ‘sous voile’ winemaking process. This winemaking process resembles the techniques that Fino Sherry producers use.
What to expect
Typically, Savagnin blanc tends to produce fresh, crisp white wines with a citrus zing and a light floral perfume. In the right conditions, the wines can have more tropical characters, such as some of those from the Coonawarra in Australia. Versions that mature in oak or in amphorae are also very popular and for good reason.
Generally, this grape is very highly versatile and it delivers wines of finesse. Plus, it is capable of longevity due to that high crisp acid. The ability to produce exciting wines when fermented in amphorae has also captured the ‘natural’ winemakers.
For more, please click here read ‘I always thought that wine was a ‘natural’ product …’
It is also getting easier to find Savagnin Blanc featured in dry white blends. It particularly works well with Chardonnay or Grenache Blanc as companions.
When made into Vin Jaune, the wines tend to have a nutty, caramel and spicy personality. This is the result of the ‘sous voile’ winemaking process. They are fuller and rounder in body, have a higher alcohol level than a fresh white wine version. These wines may even have a very savoury side too. It is not unknown for them to have exotic spice characters such as ‘curry’. More commonly though, they might smell and taste of walnuts, almonds, caramelised apple, figs and yeast.
For more about Vin Jaune and Sous Voile wines, please read Part 1: Vin Jaune and
Part 2: Sous Voile & Vin Jaune
Family and scandals …
Savagnin blanc’s importance to the wine world needs much more discussion. For instance, it is quite an old variety. A seed found in Orleans in central France was dated at over 900 years old. The grape has been found to be directly related to grapes such as Gewurztraminer, which is a mutation. The Sylvaner grape that is popular in countries with cool and short ripening seasons is one of its offspring. So too is Gruner Veltliner which is a cross between Savagnin and St Georgen. The St Georgen grape is also known as Mater Veltlinis, in honour of its being the female contributor for Gruner Veltliner. To my mind, the rarity of St Georgen vines really does support that this is Austria’s own native grape.
For more about Grüner Veltliner, please read Getting to know Gruner Veltliner
It is also possible that Viognier might be a relative. But then, the world of grape parentage is full of rumour and speculation… and scandal.
One of those scandals is that Australian wine growers in the mid 00’s had wisely planted Albarino in their vineyards. Only, by 2009 it was discovered that the variety was not Albarino, but Savagnin blanc. There is few vineyards remaining with Savagnin today, but those that remain produce excellent dry white wines.
Australian versions
Sadly, I have noticed that there are fewer and fewer versions of Savagnin from Australia. However, there are still some who remain with commitment to exploring the grape. Soumah in the Yarra Valley produce a finely tuned pristine dry white wine version. There are those which feature oak maturation too such as BK Wines Skin n Bones Savagnin.
One of the first that I discovered back in 2009 /10 was Tscharke’s Girl Talk. Damien Tscharke’s current vintage is a blend featuring Savagnin blanc along with Grenache blanc and Albarino.
There are also some rather unique Australian versions of sous voile wines. This is unsurprising when you consider Australian winemakers love of exploration. Wherever their grapes might lead them. For the sous voile styles, look for those produced by Five Bells and Crittenden Wines. Both of these producers are making Australian versions of Vin Jaune with their Savagnin blanc grapes.
What to drink with Savagnin
With a fresh stainless steel ferment version, these wines are great for seafood and dishes with goats cheese or feta. The acid will cut through cream to keep your palate feeling fresh. Mussels with a creamy white wine sauce would be ideal. Don’t stop there though, enjoy with baked fish with butter and flaked almonds, or just your local fish and chips. Calamari is a good option.
If you find an oaked white version, then it would be a great match with chicken and mediterranean vegetal dishes. Something like a quiche or an onion and cheese tartlet.
Vin Jaune versions are robust white wines that can be enjoyed with pork, chicken and charcuterie. Of course, there is also a regional match of matured Comte cheese as well. A dark chocolate might work as well.
Three to try
Here are three very different styles of Savagnin Blanc for you to taste:
Soumah Savarro
This is a vibrant, zesty and intense dry white wine that has some delightful spiciness as well. To retain that pristine fruit, it is mostly stainless steel ferment with some lees ageing as well. There is a whiff of floral perfume too that adds lift to the nose. This is a superb and not your usual white wine.
Click here to read a full review of Soumah Savarro
Hollick The Charlatan Savagnin
This is a good example of a Savagnin that has reached ripeness on the richer soils of Coonawarra, Australia. It is fully stainless steel fermented and the fruit characters is more in the tropical realm here. Some vintages this wine achieves almost tropical ripeness. Think a light tropical note on the aromas, and flavours of peach and citrus. Some vintages it is more pear and citrus in nature.
It still is crisp and refreshing as you should expect.
Domaine Badoz Vin Jaune Les Roussots
Vin Jaune is a speciality dry white wine and one that is very moreish and spicy. This is a mid lemon / gold colour, dry white wine. It smells of nuts, caramel, apple and fig. The flavours are distinctly nutty (almonds), but also rather spicy.
To find out more about Vin Jaune and ‘sous voile’ wines, please click below:
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