A couple of Austrians and a few Aussies …..

Even thirteen years ago, Australian Gruner Veltliner was unheard of outside the circle of the wine trade. Yes, that is correct, Australian …. not a typo at all.

While there is the rare kangaroo on the loose in Austrian paddocks, the same can no longer be said about Gruner Veltliner. The grape traditionally at home in Austrian vineyards, has another home on Australian soil. It can certainly be said that since posting ‘A Tale of 3 Gruners…..’ back in 2015, Australian wine drinkers are getting spoiled for choice.

Austria is very likely the home of Grüner Veltliner. There is little doubt that the grape is an icon there and that the Austrian winemakers excel with this wine. It has been found that the grape is the offspring of Savagnin blanc and Saint Georgen. The St Georgen grape is also known as Mater Veltlinis, in honour of its being the female contributor for Gruner Veltliner. To my mind, the rarity of St Georgen vines really does support that this is Austria’s own native grape.

As one of Austria’s best known native grape varieties, some of the best expressions coming from the regions of Wachau, Kamptal and Kremstal.

A versatile grape

Across the wine world, this grape proves its versatility producing white wines from sparkling, to steely dry white through full bodied oaked wine, to rich and sweet dessert style wines. It is especially well loved served fresh and just fermented for the ‘Heurige’ wines served in taverns around Vienna. The grape is also robust enough to be made into an extended skin contact white wine, including one made in an amphora.

It is also a very food friendly wine, in any of its guises. No wonder it gets the Austrians (and Australians) singing!

It is also an important grape in the Czech Republic and Slovakia. This is a grape on the move and is growing in popularlity in vineyards outside Austria including in the USA, Canada, Australia and New Zealand.

It is a great alternative for wine such as sauvignon blanc, riesling, fiano and viognier.

What does it taste like … 

This white wine is often perfumed with floral spicy notes or more herbal aromas along with plenty of citrus or stonefruit fruitiness. Don’t be surprised if you find that some of the finer Gruner Veltliner wines have a distinct mineral edge too. It can produce richer and off dry styles as well as crisp and fresh dry wines.  Also look for eisweins, Austria’s famed dessert wines, that feature this grape. 

It is usually unoaked to maintain that fresh fruit but oaked versions can be found.

What to pair this white wine with….

Gruner Veltliner are fresh, fragrant and fruity and have concentrated flavour. 

Enjoy a dry or off dry style of this wine with classic Weiner Schnitzel and salad, or a creamy asparagus crepe. Or a baked white fish dish or chicken & haloumi are good matches too. Also some soft bloomy cheese such as Camembert or Brie and fresh cheese such as goats cheese.

Even just some homemade filo pastry feta and lemon triangles with some friends. 

Especially Australian Grüner Veltliner ….

Here are some Australian versions to look out for.

Lark Hill Winery Grüner Veltliner

Canberran pioneers of this grape, the Carpenter family released the first vintage of their Lark Hill Winery Gruner Veltliner in 2009 when their vines were just 4-5 years old. Each new vintage that I have tasted of this biodynamic wine, I am impressed by its polish. As well as by the facets of floral fruit that sits happily amongst the more savoury elements. The current vintage is 2023 (AUD49). They also now make the Lark Hill Exaltation Grüner Veltliner as well (AUD $130). The grapes for Exaltation Grüner Veltliner come from the original vines (2004/5). The wine also is barrel matured.

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Hahndorf Hill Winery Grüner Veltliner

Hahndorf Hill Winery from Adelaide Hills released the first vintage of GRU in 2010. Recently, lovers of this wine will have noticed a new addition to the Hahndorf Hill Gruner Veltliner story. Fermented in stainless steel, Hahndorf Hill Winery White Mischief (AUD27) is all about pure fruit expression; zesty citrus and stonefruit. A fruity, fleshy dry wine that quickly makes friends.

GRU is still rightfully earning acclaim for its artful blend of mineral, spice, ripe stonefruit, lemon and grapefruit characters. Hahndorf Hill Winery GRU (AUD33) has that intensity that makes you come back to the glass time and time again. It is seamlessly silky on the palate, long and generously proportioned. Further proof that Hahndorf Hill have a deepening Gruner Veltliner story to tell, there now the Hahndorf Hill Reserve Grüner Veltliner (AUD55). This is a wild ferment in large and small seasoned barrels (foudre and barriques) with some barrel ageing as well. There is also a dessert style version as well… Hahndorf Hill Green Angel Late Harvest Gruner Veltliner (AUD$35).

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Paracombe Wines

Also hailing from Adelaide Hills is Paracombe, a winery that has gone from strength to strength and has now released their vision for the grape. This time as part of a blend. In this aromatically harmonious union, Paracombe Gruner V5 (AUD25), Gruner Veltliner is joins companionable grapes: Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Gewurztraminer. While the nose remains tight at first, it is a delightful mix of floral spice, peach and ripe tropical notes. There is fun to be had here. It starts lightly on the palate before finishing fleshy and long with plenty more floral spice. Made for hedonistic enjoyment. It will be a great companion for Asian spices or Sunday fish and chips on the beach.

Another Australian Gruner Veltliner that is worth looking for is the Geoff Hardy Hand Crafted Gruner Veltliner.

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The Austrians

Here are some Austrian versions to look for too.

FX Pichler Ried Kellerberg Grüner Veltliner

This is one of the benchmark Gruner Veltliner wines. The Pichler family has been making wine for over a hundred years in Austria’s Wachau wine region. It is a partially oaked white wine with a fuller body and exquisite elegance. The aromas and flavour are riper in style.  Not just citrus, which is more softer in profile such as mandarin, but also some more tropical notes. (£110 | €100)

Click here to read the full review…

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Ecker Gruner Von Eckhof

The Ecker Gruner Von Eckhof is just one of this family’s Gruner’s and it is a dry version that has typical stonefruit and citrus. There is also some pepper too. It is elegant and has a fine acid line that keeps it fresh. It is a rather delicious easy to drink white for any meal. (£16)

Click here to read the full review…

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Weingut Turk

Weingut Turk is a well experienced hand at producing great Gruner Veltliner. The estate took the Austrian White Wine Trophy in the 2015 International Wine Challenge for the 2013 vintage of this wine. The Turk Kremser Sandgrube Gruner Veltliner (GBP25) is a riper style of the grape that is redolent in white peach, lemon, peppery spice and floral aromas. This translates into a fuller bodied wine that wraps fresh soft acid neatly around an elegant core of fruit. It is generous in intensity and length and will be good drinking for the next few years.

And a sparkling German Grüner Veltliner….

Schloss Vaux Grüner Veltliner Deutscher Sekt

Schloss Vaux, from the Rheingau, has had a long sparkling history, since the late 1800’s and this is just one of its specialities .This Gruner is redolent with stonefruit so ripe that it is like biting into a fresh peach with a Rheingau reality check of crisp apple. There is also some lemon citrus and slatey minerality. This is a delicious glass of bubbles…. (€28)

Click here to read the full review…

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This was first published in October 2017 and was updated in August 2025

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