Dolcetto is a grape that certainly beats to its own drum in a small regional band. It gets much love in its region, however, so few people know this amiable grape.

And there is much to love. In fact, it is all there in the name. Indeed, with a name that translates into ‘sweet little one’, there is so plenty to adore about Dolcetto. Obviously, the ‘sweet’ part of the moniker can be misleading if you interpret it as the grape producing ‘sweet’ wines. ‘Sweet’ refers to the tendency to produce low acid wines. 

From all reports, it seems to be so much more easy going than some of the other local Piemonte red wine grape varieties. Of course, the fact adds another dimension to the meaning to the name. Some producers like it because it ripens early, sometimes a month earlier than Nebbiolo. Therefore, they potentially can harvest, crush and ferment Dolcetto before the Nebbiolo is ready to be harvested.  Particularly if ferment only takes about a week.

Furthermore, Dolcetto can produce an early drinking fruity wine to flesh out that producer’s portfolio. What is not to love? Well, what this means is that you should look for a producer who gives their Dolcetto wines the attention they deserve. 

A Piemonte gem

It is noteworthy that little Dolcetto grows outside of Italy. Even in Italy, it is a speciality of very few regions the growing regions focus on Piemonte primarily. In Liguria, the grape, or perhaps a clone of the variety, has the name Ormeasco.

Perhaps the easiest high quality version to look for, are those where Dolcetto di Dogliani DOCG appears on the label.  In addition, there are fine versions available from the regions: Dolcetto d’Alba DOC & Dolcetto d’Ovada DOC. Particularly, Dolcetto d’Ovada Superiore DOCG which requires a minimum of 12 months ageing before release. 

However, the perfumed floral wines that Dolcetto d’Alba produce are captivating. They should not be missed. The wines from Dogliano and Dolcetto d’Ovada Superiore have more structure and can live in the cellar.

What you should expect

What you should generally expect though, is a juicy red or black cherry character maybe with some almond notes along with some spice. 

In Liguria, not only is a dry red wine produced from Ormeasco, but also a Passito version. The passito method is one of the ‘drying’ methods that produce a more intense, complex and often sweet wine. There are also rare Piemonte Passito Dolcetto versions produced too. 

The wines made from this grape will often have higher tannins. However, the tannin level does not approach the levels of the more famous Nebbiolo.

And in Australia….

In Australia, the Thomson family are still producing fine Dolcetto wines from historic Dolcetto vines. These vines were planted in the 1860’s in the Grampian vineyards by the Best family. Indeed, these vines could be the oldest vines of this variety in the world!

Intriguingly, it wasn’t until 1970 that the grape was identified in those vineyards. The vines were labelled ‘Malbeck’.  Some people suggest that this confusion may be the reason the variety thrived in Best’s vineyards despite being a variety so little known in Australia. 

Now, Dolcetto continues to grow around Australia and you can find not just fruity red wines. You can also find sparkling versions and rosé versions. You will even be able to pick up red blends featuring the grape. Brown Brothers make a sweet red version where they blend Dolcetto with Syrah. The winemakers there stop the ferment early to retain that plush sweetness.

Australia is not the only other country that grows this grape. The USA is also another country where you might find versions of it. 

What to drink with Dolcetto

Look to traditional Italian fare to enjoy eating with Dolcetto wines. The fruitiness will match well with full flavoured anchovies for instance. Of course, favourites such as ragu, porcini mushrooms, pork sausages, and charcuturie work very well. Cheeses such as Pecorino, Parmesan, Manchego and Cheddar too. 

Here are some to look out for 

Bricco Rosso Dogliani DOCG  (£17)

This is a very easy red wine to appreciate. The producer’s site says the wine has spend 6 months in oak and this has given the wine some extra spice. It is full of cherry and chocolate coated liquorice with a sprinkle of herbs. The soft tannins here are lip licking. 

Prunotto Dolcetto d’Alba DOC (£21) 

The winemakers here did not mature this wine in oak. It spends its time in stainless steel tanks to retain the primary fruit. Chocolate, cherry and herb characters. The wine has a medium body and is rather juicy. 

Giacomo Fenocchio Dolcetto d’Alba DOC  (£20)

This is another stainless steel version of Dolcetto. It is a vibrant purple hue and is fuller in body. There is a spiciness that combines with the fruit. It is peppery and spicy with plenty of plum fruit that moves as a block along the palate.  

Punset Dolcetto d’Alba Superiore DOC (£24)

As an alternative, this wine has aged for around 2 years in a concrete tank. This adds softness to the tannins. There is also a bitterness at the back of the palate which provides a savoury offset to the ripe black fruit. It is long and lush.

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