Assyrtiko continues to be incredibly evocative of its Greek origins. Especially when the origins that are the volcanic soil vineyards of the island of Santorini. Although, this white grape is and historically was also well established on the mainland. Particularly on the Peloponnese Peninsula where it has been known to be exported from the stunningly beautiful port of Monemvassia. Reports of these exports date back to the 13^thCentury. The grape also grows well in the Attica region of Greece and even up to the north in the Drama region.

It is as dry, crisp and savoury white wine where Assyrtiko captures hearts and minds. Luckily, the grape suits the climate of sunny Santorini very well. In the sunshine that Santorini is famous for, this grape thrives! It takes its time to ripen being a late ripener. And in that ripening process it retains its nervy acid backbone. Importantly, it is also rather drought resistant.

Most importantly for Santorini though, in the soils there, it takes on a savoury mineral character. One that is delicious and works very well with its citrusy nature. This is especially true for those vineyards on limestone rich soils. A good thing too as Assyrtiko appears in around 70% of the vineyards of Santorini. 

According to the Wines of Greece though, Assyrtiko is a Santorini grape. Rumour had it in the past that it might have been from the Middle East. Yet DNA testing shows it is likely to be the offspring of two other white Greek grapes. Those other white grapes have a past history on Santorini but have richer heritage on other neighbouring Cyclade islands. 

It is not all crisp & dry 

Assyrtiko is a versatile wine. Most winelovers revere its crisp, mineral savouriness. There are even sparkling versions to explore. However, it is also able to be a companion grape to make the sweet wine bottled under the PDO Monemvasia-Malvasia label (note just one ‘s’ in the PDO). These are sweet wines that undergo oxidative aging for at least 2 years. The primary grape must be at least 51% Monemvassia grape but allows Assyrtiko and others in the blend.  Interestingly, despite Monemvassia grape originating from the region around the town, it is now more common elsewhere in Greece. Namely it is now more commonly found in Paros, a neighbouring island to Santorini. 

To make these sweet wines, the grapes are dried in the sun. Of course, it will be no surprise though that Santorini winemakers also make their own version of these luscious sweet wines. And even less of a surprise that they feature Assyrtiko. 

These sweet Santorini wines are something special to look out for. Look for wines that may have Vinsanto from Santorini on the label as a place to start your sweetie journey.

Of course, Assyrtiko grows well in other regions of Greece. And it often forms a blend for dry wines as well as for sweet wines. It forms an amicable blend with other native grapes from Greece, such as Monemvassia as above but also others like Athiri and Aidani. Of course, it is not just native grapes from Greece, but also international white wine grape varieties. Assyriko / Sauvignon Blanc blends immediately come to mind. Or Assyrtiko Chardonnay blends too. In those blends, Assyriko can add freshness and its distinctive mineral saltiness.

And it is not all white either…

One of the wines that we will start to see more and more on our shelves, is Assyrtiko as a blending partner in rosé wines. This gives those wines a zippy acidity and a citrusy edge. Sometimes, you will find it partnering with the perfumed native Greek deep pink grape, Moschofilero. Unsurprisingly, these rosé wines are just as delicious as a straight Assyrtiko. 

For more about Greek rosé wines, please read Get these Greek rosé wines into your glass.

Special vineyards

As you drive around Santorini, you might notice something rather different about the vineyards there. Some of these Assyrtiko vine are old. Some over 70 years old. However, that is not really the difference I refer to. On the island you will find that many traditionally planted vineyards have a special adaption to the wind that blows across the island.

The vines in these traditionally planted vineyards are grown on the ground with the trunks twisted into a circular basket like shape.  The leaves and woody stem on the outside protect the bunches of berries within that trunk circle. This type of pruning is known as the Santorini kouloura.

Coincidentally, that wind provides the vines and fruit protection from many diseases too. Such as mildew. On the flip side though, the wind can dry out the vines meaning that basket offers protection here too.  It also can provide protection from the volcanic sand that may blow across the vineyards. There is plenty of that sand around. And then finally, there is one more advantage. The sides of the basket tend to also provide some shade in the intense sunshine. 

History of Australian Assyrtiko

Assyrtiko is a grape that is only now beginning to be embraced in vineyards internationally. Peter Barry, from Jim Barry wines in Australia’s Clare Valley has recently released his take on the grape with 2015 being the first vintage of the Jim Barry Assyrtiko being available for sale. In 2011, buds from vines imported from Greece two years prior were grafted onto riesling vines. The vines were then planted in their Clare Valley vineyards in 2012.

This is the only Australian Assyrtiko I have come across and I have made it my priority to taste any new vintages of this wine as the vines gain some maturity.  These early vintages, lead me to believe the grape is in good hands with this family – a family who makes such pure expressions of the riesling grape.

To read a review on Jim Barry Assyrtiko, please click here.

Australia is not the only other country where this grape variety is now being trialled though. The grape is growing in South Africa, Alto Adige and the USA. In the USA, it grows not just in California but also to the North in Columbia Gorge. There is also Assyrtiko growing in Lebanon and surprisingly, trials in Champagne.

What does Assyrtiko taste like?

Depending on the style, Assyrtiko can be a savoury citrusy, minerally dry white wine. These wines can take on a salty character too, especially from Santorini. Outside Santorini, the grape may seem more floral or tropical notes with some spice and herbs. It is generally a wine with crisp fresh acid.

Some producers mature their wines on lees which adds roundness and cream. Lees are the dead yeast cells left from the ferment. There are oaked versions appearing on specialist’s shelves. These will have an additional creamy spiciness.  

To find out more about lees, please read ‘What are lees?‘

Alternatively, Assyrtiko can be rich, luscious and sweet with lashing of nuts. That nuttiness is distinctive due to the wine being prone to oxidise. However, those sweet wines are often deliberately oxidised and that nuttiness is welcome. When it is very ripe, the grape can take on more tropical fruit characters. 

For reviews on Greek Assyrtiko wines, why not check out:
Gaia Wild Ferment Assyrtiko
Zacharias Assyrtiko

What food goes with this white wine ….

A dry Assyrtiko is a great accompaniment for seafood and fish. Obviously chicken and vegetables are great too. Fresh cheeses such as feta, chevre and white bloomy cheese such as brie and camembert. 

Of course, you don’t need food at all as they are very enjoyable just by themselves or with a bowl of nuts or olives. 

A sweet version will match with most creamy desserts that are fruit based rather than chocolate based. And good too with blue cheeses. 

To read more about Greek wine grapes, please read Knowing your Moschofilero and Malagousia from your Mavrodaphne.

To read about some Greek wine producers please read:

Winery Spotlight: Dougos Winery
Winery Spotlight: Papagiannakos Domaine

This article was also published on Winemusing.substack.